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Header image courtesy of Lily Valette
Sheung Wan is kind of like the secret garden of Central. Its eclectic mix of antique shops, places of worship, art galleries, hip cafés, and restaurants makes for a vibrant ensemble. Many fantastic restaurants populate its streets, from dai pai dongs to fine-dining establishments, so trying to find the best place to eat is akin to looking for a needle in a haystack. Fear not—we’ve made exploring the neighborhood easy with our guide to some of the best restaurants in Sheung Wan.
Billed as a Mediterranean wine bar, Poppy is located on Upper Station Street, and the food at this sleek-looking venue is best enjoyed at the counter seats overlooking the kitchen. Its intimate interiors, compact menu, and carefully assembled wine list make it a good option to consider for a nice dinner or a date, all without splashing out.
Poppy, 16 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan
Craving wallet-friendly dim sum? Look no further than Dim Sum Square Kitchen on Jervois Street. You can eat to your heart’s content for a surprisingly modest sum, though don’t expect too much from the service. After trialling the entire menu, we can safely say that everything is worth ordering.
If we had to choose, we’d recommend the Shanghai soup dumplings, steamed or crispy barbecue pork buns, pan-fried turnip cake, pan-fried stuffed green pepper with pork, the glutinous rice with assorted meats in a lotus leaf, and the steamed lava custard buns to finish. You’ll find these items on the tick-a-box menu, but here’s our pro tip: there are two more menus with even more à la carte dishes, as well as fried rice and noodles. Don’t hesitate to ask for them or grab them from the entrance—the fried rice with minced pork and olive-leaf paste is out of this world. Bring a jacket—the AC is usually on full blast.
Dim Sum Square Kitchen, 78 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan
Upper Station Street has an eclectic combination of restaurants, including this dumpling shop that probably sees more regular customers than even the nearby McDonald’s. Hei Baat Fong’s steamed and fried dumplings bring joy and a taste of home cooking to those who are willing to queue during lunchtime.
Its à la carte options are deliciously filling, but what you’ll see served on most tables and tucked into most of the takeaway bags piling up by the entrance are the best-selling customisable noodle soups. A choice of noodle, soup base, and two or three toppings (including some of the shop’s signature dumplings) make for a heavenly good meal.
Hei Baat Fong, 3–3A Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan
Don’t judge this book by its cover—Yuk Kin Fast Food is a must-try, if only for its famed curry fried rice. Usually open from 8 am till 4 pm, this Hong Kong-style dai pai dong is located on the quiet Tai Ping Shan Street. Aim to go early because the queue can be quite unruly at peak hour, and once they sell out, that’s it for the day!
Yuk Kin Fast Food, 6 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan
Yes, we’ve heard it before—“the Samsen in Wan Chai is the OG and the only Samsen worth visiting.” Well, the daily queue outside of Samsen in Sheung Wan says otherwise. Loved for its flavourful food, vibrant aesthetics, and overall fun atmosphere, the Sheung Wan location is more spacious than its Wan Chai counterpart, and groups of six or more can book a table in advance.
The interior is a mix of concrete, wood, and tiles, with pop-culture posters slapped on the walls and a long open kitchen. It's cosy and hip, and the food is off the charts, too—think khao soi chicken curry with fresh egg noodles, freshly made roti, massaman curry with Wagyu beef cheeks, pad Thai with tiger prawns, the to-die-for selection of desserts… our mouths are watering at the thought of it.
Samsen, 23 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan
Although Samsen is definitely the popular kid on the block when it comes to Thai food in Hong Kong, we have a soft spot for Chachawan. This artsy and rustic two-storey restaurant with both table and counter seats is warm, welcoming, and down to earth. It’s a great spot for a quick and affordable lunch, and every bit as good for a lively dinner with friends.
Specialising in cuisine from the Isaan region in northern Thailand, you’ll delight in the som dtum goong, a pounded green papaya salad with chilli and prawns in sweet and sour tamarind dressing; gai yang chicken thighs marinated for 24 hours and served with jhim jeaw sauce; pad thai with prawns or chicken; khao pad wok-fried rice with crab meat; and our personal favourite, the pla phao glua, a.k.a. the salt-crusted whole seabass stuffed with lemongrass. Leave some room for dessert—the kanom dtom coconut dumplings served in salted coconut cream is a mind-blowing alternative to the more classic mango sticky rice.
Chachawan, 206 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
There are a lot of restaurants in Sheung Wan serving Asian cuisine, but there are also options for when the Western food craving hits—that’s when Beef & Liberty comes in. Not only have the chefs crafted some yummy nosh with grass-fed beef patties, but the restaurant chain also serves dishes from plant-based sister brand Leaves & Liberty, so any burger on the menu can be customised with an Impossible patty!
Beef & Liberty, 252 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan
Earning a Michelin star after just one year of operation, Racines has very rapidly established itself as one of the best kitchens in Hong Kong. The French duo behind the restaurant, chefs Romain Dupeyre and Adrien Castillo, insist on bringing warmth to fine dining. That flair, combined with some of the most flavourful French cuisine one can enjoy in Hong Kong, is an explosive combo.
The space is quite small, with only 18 seats, including the open kitchen counter (which we recommend if you like good conversation and witnessing the chefs working first-hand). Dishes on the menu are regularly refreshed, but the tabatière sourdough served at Racines is delicious!
Racines, 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan
Craving a healthy meal? More than that, do you knead it? Whether for breakfast, salad, or sandwich, Knead is the place to go for your five veggies a day. Lucky for us, healthy doesn’t mean boring, and the offerings at this neighbourhood eatery are varied and freshly prepared every day.
The customisable sandwiches and salads can be garnished with over 35 toppings, including sun-dried tomatoes, hummus, gherkins, olives, grilled eggplant, grilled pumpkin, grilled mushrooms, caramelised onions, baby spinach, rocket, red pepper, boiled or fried egg, gouda, jalapeños, brie, mozzarella, avocado spread, falafel, bacon, roasted chicken, smoked salmon… you get the idea. Feeling lazy? Pick from the à la carte menu for the best combos.
Knead, 28 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan
Looking for a no-fuss and affordable eatery without compromising on the quality of your food? Try Pho Nhat, the Vietnamese restaurant on the corner of Queen’s Road West and Possession Street. Although it gets packed at lunchtime, it stays open from 11.30 am to 11 pm, so you can easily find a table during off-peak hours. Its pork chops with lemongrass variations are tender and flavourful, while the phở and bánh mì taste authentic. Pho Nhat also serves a Vietnamese egg coffee in a traditional phin filter!
Pho Nhat, 2–12 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan
Within Sheung Wan, the Po Hing Fong neighbourhood boasts painting studios, yoga studios, art galleries, and plenty of folks walking their dogs—watch the slow movements of passers-by from Sp_ce with a meal and a good cup of coffee. This corner shop has both indoor and outdoor seating so you can enjoy the peace and quiet of the area and the surrounding greenery.
The bagels are a great option for a late breakfast or lunch, including bacon and eggs, smoked salmon, and pastrami beef fillings. We also recommended the selection of fresh spaghetti, including carbonara, spicy marinara with pork sausage, squid and squid ink, and smoked salmon with spinach.
Sp_ce Café & Lounge, 20 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan
In Paris, a “bouillon” is a lively, affordable, fast-serving restaurant that dishes up fuss-free French cuisine. Such chain restaurants were particularly popular during the early twentieth century, although it has made a strong comeback among young people in the past 10 years, who frequent them with groups of friends to enjoy red wine while feasting on French comfort food—sausage with mashed potatoes, anyone?
Bouillon brings this concept to Hong Kong—baroque décor and good wine included, and there’s even a projector screen at the back of the restaurant playing videos of old Paris so you can feel completely immersed while you dine! Classic dishes on the menu include Burgundy snails, grilled bone marrow, onion soup, and pâté en croûte for appetisers, while the duck leg confit, beef Rossini, and chicken breast with morel mushrooms are all worth a try for the main course.
Bouillon, 6 Pound Lane, Sheung Wan
Specialising in Indian and Nepalese cuisine, Namaste Kitchen serves tandoori and wok dishes, curries, seafood, as well as a plethora of vegetarian dishes, throwing in a few vegan options, too. Namaste’s dinner set for two is an affordable yet delicious combo. While we are at times guilty of going to Chautari in Queen’s Road Cooked Food Market for Indian cuisine, Namaste is a solid choice that we regularly revisit.
Namaste Kitchen, 38 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan
Now the proud awardee of a Michelin Green Star and one Michelin star, Mora’s soy-centred cuisine is making a name for itself that Hong Kong is not likely to forget. Chef and founder Vicky Lau’s name is already widely known as her other restaurant, Tate, also in Sheung Wan, is also honoured with two Michelin stars.
Inspired by French and Chinese culinary techniques, the tasting menu at Mora reveals different methods through which the humble soybean is transformed. It strongly focuses on sustainability and seasonality, providing guests with an immersive and innovative experience.
Mora, 40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan
More than a bar, but not quite a restaurant, Call Me Al infuses good vibes into the otherwise unremarkable area linking Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun through Queen’s Road West. Sitting right below the Weave Suites building, the high-ceiling venue is filled with antique furniture, old-school carpets, and windowed doors that open onto the streets.
One thing we love about Call Me Al is the team’s infectiously good vibes. From the food menu, we will never ever stray from the spicy rigatoni, but that doesn’t mean you can’t—take your pick from the smashed burger, the wild halibut, the mushroom ragu, and more (but seriously, that spicy rigatoni might change your outlook on life).
Call Me Al, 123 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan
Growing in popularity around the world, new Nordic cuisine can be found even in Sheung Wan. Head to Tai Ping Shan, where you’ll find Embla; the menu is seasonally updated and products are sourced from producers working on bettering ethical and environmental practices.
From the gubbröra shared canapé of smoked eel and pickled herring to gravlax, Embla is the perfect place for an introduction to the key features of Nordic food. Its large windows and dimmed lighting create a warm, attractive environment, inviting you in as you gaze at the restaurant from the outside.
Embla, 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan
Born and raised in the French countryside, Lily arrived in Hong Kong looking for an adventure. Passionate about books, she spent some time in Parisian publishing houses and is the author of an illustrated book about hair. Life in Hong Kong for her entails looking for seaside places to eat and a lot of hiking.
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