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Header image courtesy of Swagat Indian Restaurant
A mysterious, maze-like melting pot, Tsim Sha Tsui landmark Chungking Mansions has always simultaneously fascinated and unsettled the Hong Kong public. The 17-storey building first opened in 1961 as a high-end, mixed-use development with residential and commercial units. But after decades of poor management, the building morphed into a bustling mishmash of shops, currency exchanges, guesthouses, and restaurants, and serves as an unofficial hub for ethnic minorities to stay in or do business at.
The diverse mix of backpackers, traders, and refugees from all over resulted in Chungking Mansion’s unique food ecosystem, an array of inexpensive, homely restaurants in stark contrast to the upscale eateries in the luxury shopping centres surrounding the building. Still, because these restaurants thrive on word-of-mouth and regulars, you won’t find much info on them online. Here are some recommendations to get you started on the hidden bargains of Chungking Mansions.
With more than two decades of history under its belt, The Delhi Club is a reputable home-style Indian restaurant and one of Chungking Mansions’ mainstays amidst the constant flux of the place. Some highlights among its extensive selection of chicken, seafood, mutton, and vegetable curries include the aromatic and tender mutton rogan josh, as well as the buttery staple chicken tikka masala. To go with the curry, order some of the freshly baked signature cheese naan along with a mixed grill platter on the side for piping bites of chicken, fish, and mutton.
The Delhi Club, Shop 3, 3/F, Block C, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 2368 1682
Hidden in the upper levels of the bustling building is the Khyber Pass Mess Club, but don’t be fooled by its simple interior—it is so renowned for its Indian curries that it boasts the restaurant name of “Curry King” in Chinese. Favourites include the velvety South Indian speciality chicken madras with hints of blended coconut and traditional spices, as well as the saag paneer and a chewy paneer paratha filled with cheese.
A rarity for the restaurants in Chungking Mansions, the English menu actually includes short descriptions for each dish so that you can easily navigate the myriad of options. Plus, the waiters are more than happy to give suggestions for different kinds of curries based on your preferences. Aside from the curries, other mains include the superbly marinated clay oven tandoori chicken and fish tikka, perfect for sharing with friends.
Khyber Pass Mess Club, Shop E2, 7/F, Block E, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 5484 9666
Pop around to Bismillah Kebab House for a hearty taste of Turkey by way of its famous kebabs. Indulge in a large plate of lamb döner with chips for succulent meat and well-done steak fries, or the smoky chicken shish kebab and its generous side of greens for a healthier choice. If you’re looking for a quick meal on-the-go, be sure to go for the classic, toasty lamb kebab roll or a slice of the chicken pizza for an exciting alternative to your workaday sandwich.
Bismillah Kebab House, Shop 75, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 2722 5733
One of the classier eateries on our list, Swagat brands itself as an all-encompassing Indian restaurant serving both North and South Indian cuisine, carefully tucked away from the noise and bustle of the building. Among the vegetarian curries the restaurant specialises in, go for the palak paneer for a filling, creamy stew of spices, spinach, and paneer. Other notable dishes include the crispy onion bhaji snack. Finish off the meal by enjoying the refreshing, homemade kesar kulfi milk ice cream as you wind down after browsing the many curious shops in the building.
Swagat Indian Restaurant, Shop 103–104, 1/F, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 6174 0223
Swing by House of Curry for a rare taste of Sri Lankan cuisine near the back of Chungking Mansions. One curious Sri Lankan dish is the string hoppers, where rice-meal dough is pressed into noodles, woven into a disc, and then steamed—an intriguing variation on your usual noodles. The shop also serves Indian specialities such as the South Indian chicken thali, where a steaming mound of rice is surrounded by six mini metal bowls. Dal, chutney, yoghurt, and more are designed to balance out the six flavours. Don’t miss the crisp, paper-thin rolls of dosai, in contrast to the heavier, thicker versions found in neighbouring eateries.
House of Curry, Shop 48, G/F, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 6158 3200
Perhaps you’ve heard of the surreptitious African eateries in Chungking Mansions. While you’d have to discover those for yourself—as they are unnamed and unlicensed—there is one place where you can eat African food out in the open. At Ghana Locals, you can enjoy a rare, homely taste of African dishes in Hong Kong, including specialities such as fufu and light soup with goat meat, where maize and green plantain flour is pounded into a smooth, chewy ball and doused in a light soup. Other mains include a nourishing dish of jollof rice with chicken and fried plantain with beans.
Ghana Locals, Shop 102, G/F, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 5624 8809
The Jain diet is an entirely plant-based diet founded on compassion and non-violent principles. Although Jains consume plants, they avoid all unnecessary violence against them; the cuisine mainly uses fruits, grains, seeds, nuts, and vegetables, of course, but steering clear of any root and underground vegetables in order not to injure the nearby ecosystem when uprooting.
Savarana Pure Vegetarian is one of the few restaurants in Hong Kong to serve Jain food, and its varied menu is just as appealing as any. You can feast on Saravana’s very own dahi puri, masala dosa, chickpea chana masala, and more.
Saravana Pure Vegetarian, Shop 105, 1/F, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 2739 7633
Not to be confused with Hong Kong’s newly reopened Jimmy’s Kitchen—this restaurant is far from the glam of the Landmark dining scene—Paul’s Kitchen serves African cuisine. Its signature dishes are the roasted eggplant with Ghana chilli sauce, the African spicy chicken pot, the deep-fried tilapia fish, and the braised Ghanaian groundnut soup with goat meat and beef tripe. It also has an array of appetisers, including salads, canapés, meats, seafood, and more, as well as a daily set lunch inclusive of the Bang Bang prawn with African rice. For the chocolate fans out there, Paul’s serves an organic hot or cold Ghana chocolate drink you have to try.
Paul’s Kitchen, Shop 21, 1/F, Chungking Mansions, 36–44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | (+852) 3956 2178
First published on 24 June 2020. Written by Ngai Yeung. Last updated by Lily Valette.
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