Your neighbourhood guide to Mid-Levels

Nestled in greenery just a brief walk upslope of bustling Pacific Place is the Asia Society Hong Kong Centre. Once the Explosives Magazine of the former Victoria Barracks, the structure is currently a blend of mid-nineteenth-century architecture and modern concrete-and-glass additions that house galleries, function spaces, and theatres. It is an Instagrammable heritage site as much as a host for a variety of cultural events such as workshops, recitals, and exhibitions. Whichever you are looking for—a breath of fresh air, a taste of history, or close contact with art—this place has it all.

Asia Society Hong Kong Centre, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty | (+852) 2103 9511

Longing for a break from the city? You just might find it within steps of your Central office building! With a conservatory, rich outdoor vegetation, and an artificial lake filled with turtles and fish, the eight-hectare park is an urban oasis that offers sightings of squirrels and endangered parrots. Its very own aviary is certainly a highlight—over 70 species of birds fly within the mesh-covered natural valley. Raised wooden walkways wind through the canopy to allow one-of-a-kind close encounters between visitors and the winged inhabitants. For those who would prefer more action, Hong Kong Park also takes pride in having an indoor sports centre as well as Hong Kong’s largest squash centre!

Hong Kong Park, 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central | (+852) 2521 5041

Previously the residence of the commander of the British forces, the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware is the oldest example of colonial Western-style architecture in Hong Kong. In contrast, its contents are characteristically Chinese. This branch of the Museum of Art displays a rare collection of teaware, ceramics, and seals that take visitors through the history and practices of the Chinese tea tradition. Its regular demonstrations and activities centred around tea-drinking culture are not to be missed.

Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Central | (+852) 2869 0690

“vA!”—the short form for the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre—is said to express the surprise and wonder brought about by art. Indeed, it is a well-loved exhibition venue that also provides studio space for aspiring artists and those hoping to learn. While its well-equipped lecture theatre and ceramic, sculpture, and printmaking studios attract professionals and workshop participants alike, the building itself has its own charms. As part of the old Victoria Barracks, its glass and steel geometric design, fitted to the sloping landscape in a stair-like structure, is recognisable anywhere.

Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre, 7A Kennedy Road, Central | (+852) 2521 3008

Wondering about alternative ways to reach the Peak, other than by public transit? Look no further than the Central Green Trail, which spans across the Mid-Levels and—if you like—takes you all the way to the top. Right next to the Peak Tram Lower Terminus are stairs that mark its starting point. Its early sections go side by side with the tram tracks, giving glimpses of the operating Peak Tram and—further up—views of Victoria Harbour. Embarking on this 1.5-hour-long trail will let you experience both wildlife and historic buildings and might be one of the most unique hiking experiences Hong Kong has to offer.

Legend has it, a Japanese military officer fell in love with a maiden of the boat people in the aftermath of the Second World War. Unaccepted by their families, the two took their lives on Bowen Road and were immortalised in the form of a rock that has been blessing lovers who visit ever since. Thus, the Lover’s Rock along Bowen Road may be the reason why many look to the Bowen Road Fitness Trail, but the pathway is a lovely outing through nature in its own right. Compared to the Central Green Trail, this is an easy walk, with no fewer scenic spots. You only need to hop on a short bus ride from Central, then views of the Admiralty and Wan Chai urban jungle are all yours to feast on.

The Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, yet another declared monument in the area, is more than just a sight to behold. Beneath its red brick façade, the laboratories and offices of the Old Pathological Institute collect and exhibit artefacts of Hong Kong’s medical history, where a century ago, scientists worked to contain the bubonic plague outbreak. This museum is true to its predecessor in its continued promotion of local interest and knowledge in medicine as well as health.

Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2549 8123

Not far from the University of Hong Kong is the Lung Fu Shan Morning Trail. A concrete paved track for most of the way, this trail is notable for the many historic landmarks along the way. As the hiker encounters old boundary stones, remains of bunkers and of batteries behind overgrown leaves, the trek becomes not only one into nature but also one into the past. Head to the very end of the Hatton Road cul-de-sac and cross the little overpass to embark on the Lung Fu Shan Morning Trail.

In the depths of the Asia Society Hong Kong Centre, AMMO is a secret within a secret. The award-winning Italian-Japanese fusion bar and restaurant holds true to its name and motto—“Asia, Modern, Museum, and Original.” Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for natural lighting and full views of the surrounding hillside greenery; Hollywood-esque interior design creates a classy and atmospheric environment; but the stars are, of course, its food and drinks. From its flavourful Koriyaki king crab fettuccine ($260) and M5 Wagyu ribeye in sukiyaki jus ($260) to the lighter afternoon tea set or just a cocktail, AMMO has something for everyone hoping to take some time off.

AMMO, Asia Society Hong Kong Centre, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty | (+852) 2537 9888

A full-vegetarian dim sum restaurant and tea house, Lokcha Teahouse has established itself as a tea expert. Its modern take on dim sum does not disappoint—its signature truffle siu mai ($48) and deep-fried vegetarian prawn roll with cheese ($48) are always to be recommended. But its traditional Chinese tea house environment tells the customer that its tea menu, with its wide range of white tea, yellow tea, and different types of oolong, is where the real delight lies.

Lockcha Teahouse, G/F, The K.S. Lo Gallery, Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Admiralty | (+852) 2801 7177

To enthusiasts of authentic Sichuan cuisine, San Xi Lou would be a familiar name. At its hidden location overlooking Central skyscrapers, take your pick out of full Sichuan courses, hotpot, and dim sum. Whether you are a spicy food lover or are about to brave Sichuan flavours for the very first time, the restaurant’s stewed fish, mouth-watering chicken, and mala hotpot are must-tries.

San Xi Lou, 22/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2868 0988

Chuan Yue Lou was opened by ex-staff from San Xi Lou in the same building—what a power move—but with a new fascia and menu. As its name indicates, the branched-off restaurant adds Cantonese cuisine to its old Sichuan speciality—and the quality is equally excellent. On top of the marinated ox tripe with chilli sauce and mapo beancurd, check out its pan-fried prawns with salted egg yolk.

Chuan Yue Lou, 7/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2838 2828

This trio of old-fashioned Hong Kong takeaway eateries might be dismissed for their simple and unassuming exteriors, but they are not collectively called the “three treasures of Kennedy Road” for no reason. King Sing, Man Lee, and Huen Kee have been neighbours since the 1950s and have won over generations of students and workers with household dishes at once cheap and delicious. Though each has its own original menu to delve into, personal favourites include King Sing’s steamed fuzzy melon with pork ribs, Man Lee’s curry beef, Huen Kee’s burger patty & fried egg with soy sauce.

King Sing, Man Lee & Huen Kee, 4–8 Kennedy Road, Mid-Levels

Every 10 minutes or so, the Peak Tram passes just outside the Tram View Café’s windows. Some, looking to be even closer to the iconic Hong Kong transport, elect to sit in the outdoor terrace for an experience you can find nowhere else in town. Inside, the café provides simple Western mains, classic cha chaan teng snacks, and nostalgic Hong Kong desserts. Surrounded by its warm British furnishings and sipping on artisanal coffee and tea, the afternoon goes by in a blink.

Tram View Café, G/F, 2 Tramway Path, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2323 6873

Do not be deceived by its storefront—Elephant Grounds’ Caine Road branch is, in fact, one of the beloved coffee shop’s largest, replete with outdoor seating and a second floor. As with all Elephant Grounds shops, its chic décor and scents of in-house roasted coffee make it a relaxing place to be. When itching for a bite, order its avocado toast ($105) or indulge in an ice cream sandwich ($68).

Elephant Grounds, 61 Caine Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2535 7155

Speciality coffee and smoothie bar Blend & Grind now has several locations, but all started right here in Mid-Levels. Chill, quiet, cosy—you name it, Blend & Grind is it. Many return for its bagels, especially the smoked turkey bagel with green apple ($85). We find the yoghurt shake ($65) with its assortment of health-boosting fruits and various coffee blends memorable, as befits the place’s name.

Blend & Grind, G/F, 1 Princes Terrace, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2887 3232

Take your first step towards a healthier lifestyle at this shop-slash-café. SpiceBox Organics caters to every one of your basic household needs, providing a great selection of certified fresh produce, organic seasonings, and sustainable home products, among many others. At SpiceBox’s communal tables, you can always sit down after you’ve finished your shopping for a vegan meal and organic smoothie.

SpiceBox Organics, Shop 1, Golden Valley Mansion, 137 Caine Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2559 9887

Yes, you can enjoy gourmet meals right at home when schedule or pandemic disrupt your dinner plans! For starters, browse through Pacific Gourmet’s range of cold cuts and cheese. Its assortment of high-quality Australian and Norwegian meat and seafood serve well as main dishes, too, and imported treats round off the meal. In the mood for a vintage? Look no further than the fine wine section.

Pacific Gourmet, 53 Caine Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2898 9000

Towering shelves that display spines you can tell have been loved. Thick tomes basking in mid-morning rays on the windowsill. Stacks placed somewhat haphazardly on the tiles, the perfect height and distance to reach for from your coffee table. To any bookworm, Books & Co.’s sights and smells are stuff that literary dreams are made of. This beloved second-hand bookstore and café welcomes anyone hoping to lose themselves between pages for a few hours or more.

Books & Co., 10 Park Road, Mid-Levels | (+852) 2559 5199